Nazaré is world-famous for the giant waves at Praia do Norte — but that's one spot, and it's not where anyone learns to surf. A lot of first-timers googling "Portugal surf trip" see Nazaré on TV, add it to the plan, and only later find out the town has one beginner beach and it doesn't always cooperate. Aljezur is quieter — a fishing and farming town on the Costa Vicentina with multiple sandy beaches that are consistently kinder to people learning. This post is about which town actually suits someone new to surfing.
To get it out of the way: Nazaré is amazing to visit. Go watch the chargers when the North Canyon fires — it's genuinely one of the great sights in surfing. Just don't plan to learn there.
Nazaré: two beaches, two very different worlds
Praia do Norte is the famous one. A reef point set up by an underwater canyon that focuses swell into 20+ metre waves in winter. Absolutely not a beginner wave. Ever.
Praia da Vila, the town beach, sits protected by the headland. Smaller, gentler swell. On calm days the shorebreak is small enough for beginners, and surf schools work there.
The catch: Praia da Vila only works for beginners when conditions align. On big-swell days — which is exactly when tourists come to see the big-wave madness — even the town beach can be closed-out and unruly. And it's busy. Dozens of schools rotating groups through one small strip of sand.
Aljezur: five beaches, always something learnable
Aljezur has five main surf beaches spread over 20km of natural-park coastline: Arrifana, Monte Clérigo, Amoreira, Vale Figueiras, and Bordeira. All sandy beach breaks. On any given day at least one or two of them have gentle enough conditions for a first-timer.
Arrifana bay in particular is wind-sheltered and stays clean when it's blowing hard everywhere else — a real advantage in summer, when the Nortada wrecks exposed beaches.
Bottom line for beginners: Aljezur has more forgiving spots and more consistency for learning. Nazaré has one decent beginner beach that only works sometimes.
Distance and travel
Nazaré is a long way from most surf-trip starting points:
- 1.5h from Lisbon
- 3h from Aljezur
- 3.5h from Faro airport
Aljezur is closer to the airport most European visitors actually fly into:
- 3h from Lisbon
- 1.5h from Faro airport
If you're flying into Faro on a cheap flight, Aljezur is both closer and easier.
Water temperature
Aljezur sits further south, and the water reflects that. It's warmer year-round by 2–3°C.
| Aljezur | Nazaré | |
|---|---|---|
| Summer | ~19–20°C | ~17–18°C |
| Winter | ~14–15°C | ~12–13°C |
For a first-timer already anxious about the ocean, warmer water is a genuine comfort — not a marketing footnote. Two degrees is the difference between "cold but fine" and "cold enough that I want to get out."
The comparison
| Aljezur | Nazaré (for beginners) | |
|---|---|---|
| Beginner beaches | Five sandy beach breaks | One (Praia da Vila) |
| Consistency | High — always something small | Moderate — depends on swell and wind |
| Crowds | Low outside peak summer | High on Praia da Vila |
| Water temperature | Warmer (further south) | Cooler |
| Wind | Some protected spots | Exposed |
| Big-wave sightseeing | Not this coast | Yes — Praia do Norte in winter |
| Distance from Faro | 1.5h | 3.5h |
| Distance from Lisbon | 3h | 1.5h |
| Non-surf activities | Nature, hiking, quiet villages | Cliffs, lighthouse, fishermen's culture |
| Best for | Learning to surf | Watching pros surf big waves |
Who should choose what
Choose Aljezur if:
- You're a total beginner or improving
- You want warmer water and gentle sandy beaches
- You want to actually surf every day of your trip
- You're flying into Faro
- Uncrowded lineups matter
Choose Nazaré if:
- You want to watch the Praia do Norte big-wave madness in winter
- You're an intermediate or advanced surfer looking for a challenge
- You're already based in Lisbon and want a shorter drive
- You're drawn to the history and drama of the fishing town
Or do both. If you've got two weeks, surf Aljezur for a week and go up to Nazaré for a few days to watch the big-wave chargers. The swell window runs mid-October through March.
If you're weighing Nazaré against other big-name Portuguese surf towns, our three-way comparison of Aljezur, Peniche and Ericeira covers the rest of the map.
A practical note for beginners: don't over-plan
Most first-timers try to do too much on a Portugal surf trip. Aljezur is enough. One town, five beaches, warm-ish water, wetsuit and board delivered to your door — that's the shortest path from "never surfed" to "caught a green wave." Read first-time surfing in Portugal if you want the longer version.
Frequently asked questions
Can beginners really surf Nazaré?
At Praia da Vila, on the right day, yes — surf schools run there and the shorebreak can be gentle. But it's a coin toss. On big-swell days the town beach turns messy fast, and those are precisely the days tourism peaks. If learning is the goal, you want more options than one beach.
Is Nazaré's town beach always dangerous?
No — most calm summer days it's fine, and schools operate happily. But it's exposed and it changes character quickly when swell picks up. Local instructors know when to move lessons; a self-taught beginner without local knowledge is more exposed to that variability.
Which town has better surf schools?
Both have schools. The difference is choice: in Aljezur, schools spread across five beaches and can pick the beach that suits the day. In Nazaré, the beginner beach is Praia da Vila, and that's it.
Can I do both in a two-week trip?
Yes, comfortably. Base in Aljezur for the surf, then drive north for a few days in October–March to see Praia do Norte at size. Don't try to do both in a week — the drive eats too much of it.
What months are best for a beginner in Aljezur?
Late spring and autumn — May, June, September, October. Smaller, cleaner swell, warm-ish water, thin crowds, and the Nortada is less relentless than midsummer. July and August still work; they're just busier and windier by late morning.
If you're learning to surf, keep it simple. Base in Aljezur, let us handle the gear, and spend your energy on getting in the water.